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| Finished shampoo bars |
Why "All Hair Types" Needs Customization (Not Magic)
Here's the truth: no single shampoo bar works perfectly for everyone straight out of the gate. Your hair type, water hardness, and scalp needs all matter.
But here's the good news: you can build a shampoo bar that works for YOU by starting with a gentle base formula and adding targeted herbs, clays, or conditioning agents based on what your hair actually needs.
Think of it like cooking. The base recipe is your foundation. The add-ins are your flavor adjustments.
This guide gives you both: solid base recipes that won't strip or build up on most hair types, plus a customization framework so you're not guessing which herbs to throw in.
Shampoo Bar vs Hair Soap (Why pH Matters)
Let's clear up the confusion right now.
Shampoo bars and hair soaps are not the same thing.
Soap-Based Bars (Traditional Cold Process)
- Made with oils + lye (sodium hydroxide)
- The lye converts oils into soap through saponification
- Typically have a pH of 8–10 (alkaline)
- Hair's natural pH is around 4.5–5.5 (slightly acidic)
- The mismatch: Alkaline soap opens the hair cuticle, which can feel rough, tangled, or leave residue—especially in hard water
- Who it works for: Some people love them (especially with soft water and an acidic rinse), but they require technique and adjustment
Syndet Shampoo Bars (Synthetic Detergent Bars)
- Made with gentle surfactants (like SCI or SCS)—no lye involved
- Can be formulated to a pH closer to hair's natural range (~5–6)
- Less likely to cause waxy buildup or that "stripped then greasy rebound" cycle
- Who it works for: Most hair types, especially beginners, hard water areas, or anyone who's had bad experiences with soap bars
Which should you make?
If you're new to DIY shampoo bars or have had waxy/tangled results before, start with a syndet bar. They're more forgiving.
If you love the idea of a fully from-scratch soap bar and have soft water (or don't mind vinegar rinses), soap-based bars can be beautiful—but they're not for everyone.
This guide focuses on syndet recipes because they deliver the "all hair types" promise more reliably.
Choose Your Method: Decision Framework
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| Decision Flowchart |
Tools + Ingredients You'll Need
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| Ingredients |
Essential Tools
- Digital scale (accurate to 1g)
- Heat-safe bowl or double boiler
- Silicone spatula
- Silicone molds (soap molds, muffin tins, or small silicone ice cube trays work)
- Optional: immersion blender for faster mixing
Shopping Checklist (Base Ingredients)
For Syndet Bars:
- SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) powder or noodles
- BTMS-25 or BTMS-50 (conditioning emulsifier)
- Cocamidopropyl betaine (optional, adds lather)
- Carrier oil (like jojoba, argan, or sweet almond)
- Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5, optional but recommended)
- Distilled water or herbal infusion
- Preservative (Leucidal SF or Optiphen Plus if adding water-based ingredients)
Herbal Add-Ins (choose 1–3):
- Dried rosemary (stimulating, for all hair types)
- Nettle leaf (strengthening, mineral-rich)
- Chamomile (soothing, brightening for light hair)
- Hibiscus (shine, color deposit for dark/red tones)
- Amla powder (conditioning, prevents premature graying)
- Calendula (calming for sensitive scalps)
Texture/Function Add-Ins:
- Kaolin or bentonite clay (oil control, 1–2 tsp per batch)
- Hydrolyzed wheat protein (strength, 1–2 tsp)
- Essential oils (optional: rosemary, lavender, peppermint—use at 1–2%)
Recipe #1: Gentle Herbal Syndet Shampoo Bar (All Hair Types)
Gentle Herbal Syndet Shampoo Bar
Ingredients (by weight)
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Total batch weight: ~170g
*To make herbal infusion: Steep 1 tbsp each dried rosemary + nettle in 1/4 cup boiling distilled water for 30 min. Strain completely.
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| Melting SCI in double boiler |
Instructions
- Prep your herbs: Make the infusion and let it cool. Strain well—no plant bits should remain.
- Melt the base: In a heat-safe bowl over a double boiler, combine SCI powder and BTMS-25. Heat gently, stirring occasionally, until melted and combined (this can take 10–15 minutes; SCI is stubborn).
- Add liquids: Remove from heat. Stir in jojoba oil, panthenol, and cocamidopropyl betaine. Mix thoroughly.
- Add herbal infusion: Slowly add your cooled infusion while stirring. The mixture will thicken quickly.
- Add clay + preservative: Sprinkle in kaolin clay and preservative. Mix until evenly distributed.
- Add essential oils (if using): Stir in your essential oil blend.
- Mold immediately: The mixture will be thick and putty-like. Press firmly into molds, packing tightly to avoid air pockets.
- Set: Let bars sit in molds for 24 hours at room temperature. Pop out and let cure on a rack for another 24–48 hours before use.
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| Mixing thick shampoo bar paste |
Substitutions
- No SCI? Try SCS (Sodium Coco Sulfate) at the same ratio—slightly different feel, still works.
- No BTMS? Use cetyl alcohol (15g) + polysorbate 80 (5g)
- No jojoba? Swap for argan, sweet almond, or light olive oil
- No herbal infusion? Use plain distilled water or skip liquid entirely (bar will be harder to mol,d but still works)
Recipe #2: Simple Sensitive Scalp Herbal Bar (Low Scent / No Essential Oils Option)
Simple Sensitive Scalp Herbal Bar
Ingredients (by weight)
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Total batch weight: ~173g
*Calendula infusion: Steep 1 tbsp dried calendula in 1/4 cup boiling distilled water for 30 min. Strain.
Instructions
Follow the same method as Recipe #1:
- Melt SCI + BTMS-50
- Add sweet almond oil + panthenol
- Stir in calendula infusion slowly
- Add colloidal oatmeal + preservative
- Skip essential oils (or use chamomile at 0.5% if tolerated)
- Mold, set 24 hours, cure 24–48 hours
Customize by Hair Type
Start with either base recipe, then dial in these add-ins:
For Oily Hair / Scalp
- Add: 1 tsp bentonite clay or rhassoul clay
- Add: Nettle or rosemary infusion (both help balance oil)
- Reduce: Oils slightly (use 8g instead of 10–15g)
- Essential oils: Peppermint, tea tree (1% total)
For Dry, Curly, or Coarse Hair
- Add: 5–10g extra conditioning oil (argan, avocado, or shea butter)
- Add: Hibiscus or amla infusion (shine + slip)
- Add: 1 tsp hydrolyzed wheat protein (strengthens without drying)
- Skip: Clay
- Essential oils: Lavender, ylang ylang (1–2%)
For Fine or Thin Hair
- Keep oils light: Jojoba or grapeseed (avoid heavy butters)
- Add: Rosemary infusion (stimulates scalp)
- Add: Panthenol for volume without weight
- Optional: 1/2 tsp kaolin clay for gentle oil control
- Essential oils: Rosemary, cedarwood (1%)
For Color-Treated or Damaged Hair
- Add: 1 tsp hydrolyzed wheat or silk protein
- Add: Chamomile (brightens) or hibiscus (color deposit for reds/browns)
- Increase: BTMS to 25–30g for extra conditioning
- Essential oils: Geranium, lavender (1%)
For Dandruff-Prone or Itchy Scalp
- Add: Nettle + calendula infusion
- Add: 1 tsp neem powder (antifungal, strong scent—use sparingly)
- Essential oils: Tea tree + rosemary (1.5% total)
- Note: If dandruff persists, consult a dermatologist—it may need medical treatment
How to Use Your Shampoo Bar
First-time users: Your hair may need 2–4 washes to adjust, especially if switching from conventional shampoo.
Wash-Day Technique Checklist
- Wet hair thoroughly with warm water (really soak it)
- Wet the bar and rub between hands to create lather, OR
- Rub bar directly on scalp in gentle circular motions (roots only)
- Massage scalp with fingertips for 1–2 minutes—let the lather do the work
- Don't scrub lengths (unless very oily)—let lather rinse through
- Rinse thoroughly with warm water, then finish with cool water to close cuticles
- Follow with conditioner on mid-lengths to ends (yes, you still need this)
- Optional acidic rinse: 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar in 1 cup water (see FAQ)
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| Finished bars |
Storage
- Let the bar dry completely between uses on a draining soap dish
- Keep away from the direct shower spray
- Cure for 48 hours before first use for a harder, longer-lasting bar
- Shelf life: 6–12 months if kept dry (preservative protects against mold in humid environments)
Troubleshooting Table
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Common Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
Mistake #1: Not weighing ingredients.
Eyeballing doesn't work. Use a scale. 5g off can ruin your texture.
Mistake #2: Adding water without a preservative.
Water + no preservative = mold city in 2 weeks. Always use Leucidal SF or similar if your recipe includes infusions.
Mistake #3: Expecting instant perfection.
Your hair needs time to adjust. Give it 3–4 washes before deciding the bar doesn't work.
Mistake #4: Using soap-based bars in hard water without an acidic rinse.
If you have hard water and use a traditional soap bar, you WILL get buildup. Use a vinegar or citric acid rinse every time.
Mistake #5: Overloading with essential oils.
More is not better. Stick to 1–2% of total batch weight. Skin irritation isn't worth the extra scent.
Safety + Storage
Safety Notes
- Preservative is non-negotiable if using any water-based ingredient (infusions, aloe, etc.)
- Patch test any new bar on your inner arm for 24 hours before using it on your scalp
- Keep bars away from children and pets (they look and smell nice, but aren't food)
- If you experience persistent scalp irritation, stop use and consult a dermatologist.
Storage Best Practices
- Cure bars in a cool, dry place with good airflow
- Once cured, store extras in a breathable container (paper bag, not plastic)
- Use a draining soap dish with ridges—sitting water = mushy bar
- In very humid climates, store unused bars in an airtight container with silica gel packets
Frequently Asked Questions
For syndet bars (Recipes #1 and #2): No, not usually. These are pH-balanced and shouldn't leave alkaline residue.
For soap-based bars: Yes, especially if you have hard water. Mix 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar in 1 cup of water and pour over hair after shampooing. This neutralizes alkaline residue and closes the cuticle.
Bottom line: Try your bar without the rinse first. If hair feels tangled or waxy, add an acidic rinse.
One bar typically lasts 2–3 months with regular use, depending on hair length and frequency. They last much longer than you'd expect because you're not using a product with 80% water filler.
Yes. The syndet recipes are gentle enough for color-treated hair. Add hibiscus for reds/browns or chamomile for blondes to enhance color. Protein add-ins help strengthen chemically-treated hair.
Either it didn't cure long enough (needs 48–72 hours) or it's sitting in water. Use a draining soap dish and keep the bar out of direct shower spray. High-humidity climates need extra cure time.
SCI is the backbone of these syndet recipes. Without it, you'd need to switch to a completely different formula (like a soap-based bar made with lye). SCI is available online from DIY cosmetic suppliers and is worth ordering for the best results.
Recipe #2 (Sensitive Scalp) is gentle enough for children over age 3, especially without essential oils. Always supervise use and avoid eye contact. For babies and toddlers, stick to pediatrician-recommended products.
Yes. Transition from conventional shampoo takes 2–4 washes. Your scalp is adjusting to synthetic silicones and sulfates. Some people experience temporary oiliness or dryness before hair balances. Stick with it.
No. Fresh herbs contain moisture that can introduce bacteria and shorten shelf life dramatically, even with a preservative. Always use dried herbs for infusions.
Syndet bars work MUCH better in hard water than soap-based bars. If you have extremely hard water and still experience issues, try a chelating shampoo once a month or install a shower filter.
If you want to sell DIY cosmetics, you need to follow FDA regulations, use proper good manufacturing practices (GMP), have proper insurance, and follow labeling laws. These recipes are shared for personal use only.
SCI, BTMS, and cocamidopropyl betaine are all coconut-derived. If you have a true coconut allergy (rare but serious), consult an allergist before using. Some people react to whole coconut but tolerate highly-processed derivatives—test carefully.
Signs of spoilage: off smell (rancid or musty), mold spots, color changes, or slimy texture. If properly preserved and stored dry, bars last 6–12 months. When in doubt, toss it.
Final Thoughts: Make It Yours
You now have everything you need to make a shampoo bar that actually works for your hair.
Start with Recipe #1 or #2 as written. Use it for a week. Then adjust.
Add rosemary if you want stimulation. Add clay if you're oily. Add extra conditioning if you're dry. This is your formula to customize.
Ready to Get Started?
Save this post so you can come back when you're ready to tweak your recipe. And drop a comment below with your hair type—I'd love to know which version you're planning to try first.
Want to print this recipe for your bathroom? Copy the ingredient tables into a document and laminate them. No more scrolling on a wet phone.
Now go make something that works.
Related Posts You Might Like
- How to Make Herbal Infusions for DIY Skincare
- Beginner's Guide to Natural Emulsifiers (BTMS, Cetyl Alcohol, More)
- Clay Guide: Kaolin vs Bentonite for Hair and Skin
- Best Carrier Oils for Scalp Health
- DIY Hair Conditioner Bars (To Pair With Your Shampoo Bar)
- Understanding Preservatives in DIY Cosmetics